2 days, 800 delightful miles

You might be saying:  2 days, 800 delightful miles?  How can that possibly be?  

Actually, I was kind of saying that to myself last night, when I arrived home at 11:00 pm, tired and sore from driving every one of those "delightful" miles.  

But honestly, it's the truth.  As I was taking this marathon trip, driving from nearly one end of my consular district to another, and then back again to Merida, kind of making a triangle, I was thinking that I'm just so lucky to live in an area where I can drive freely without fear of overt danger.  Of course I still need to be careful, and I am.  In fact, I drove a few miles extra on my way home to take a more well traveled road vs. the more convenient, less traveled, no cell phone reception road -- definitely not a road you should take at night.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.  Let me take you back in time, 2 days ago. 

It's Friday night and nearly time for the consulate to close, and here come the email notifications:  one American in custody in Campeche, and 4 Americans in custody in Chetumal. Having detainees in Chetumal is hard enough to coordinate because that means a 5 hour drive (one way) with our limited resources, but also having a detainee in Campeche, which is on the opposite side of the peninsula, means someone is gonna do a whole lotta driving this weekend.  With one officer on R&R, another on annual leave, and the other on duty, guess who's going driving? yes, that's right....me!

First thing Saturday morning, I drop Oscar at doggie daycare and I'm out the door. In two hours, I'm at the main prison in Campeche, conveniently located right off the federal highway, next to the hammock makers, I'm here to visit someone who perhaps did something perhaps not so good (isn't that always the reason?).  Out of all the prisons I've been to, it was actually one of the "better" ones.  It had automatic cell doors that actually worked.  (I guess it doesn't take much to impress me!).

Despite their "fancy" doors, this is not a place I'd like to stay for long.

After doing all that I needed to do, I'm back in the car, heading to Chetumal, more than 300 miles away.  I travel south through seaside towns, until the road turns inland, and then I'm back on the route that Patrick and I took for our 1500 mile journey (Yes, I promised a blog about that, didn't I? It's coming, it's coming!)  

About 6:30 pm, just when it's getting dark and I'm getting restless, I pull into the town of Xpujil.  As I pass the yummiest restaurant in town (Sazon Veracruzano--in case you are in the neighborhood one day), I recognize the mini van of my colleague Robert (who is on leave), and I remember that he's visiting Calakmul with his family.

I'm such a firm believer that God gives you what you need when you need it, and this was the perfect time to take a little break, have a little snack, and get some little hugs.  As you can tell, we were all kind of wild and crazy.  :-)

Mary, Vivianne, me, Ben, Henry, and Marshall

Then it was back in the car, for the remaining 2 hours drive to Chetumal....only it was worse than that, because as I got into the car, I remembered that the state of Quintana Roo is actually one hour ahead of us, and that really meant a 3 hour drive!!!  Oh no! But all in all, I gratefully arrived safely, and was snuggled into bed by 11 pm.  

Sunday:  Rise and Shine and off to the Mexican Immigration Detention Facility.   Being the "good American consular officer that I am", I arrived punctually at my appointed time, only to wait 45 minutes for someone to come and unlock the door to the area normally used for consular interviews. Oh well...and whoops, by the way, instead of 4 Americans, there are really 6.  Alrighty then....let's get to it.

3 hours later, forms were completed, requests were facilitated, phones calls were organized, and 6 Americans were a bit happier having seen their American consul.  It's honestly a great feeling when you legitimately help someone.

3pm - what to do, what to do...it's a beautiful day.  The sun is shining and the sky is so blue. I don't frequent this part of the peninsula very often, so I decide to drive 40 miles to visit the sleepy fishing village of Mahaual.  We've had some cases from this area recently, and I thought it would be good to check it out. 

They say that Mahaual has two faces....the one it shows when the cruise ships dock and tourists arrive, and the other one it shows when everyone leaves.  I definitely got the "everyone's left" face.

el faro, aka the lighthouse

crepe paper fish...one storm and that thing would be off to sea!

"downtown" Mahaual...I use that term  loosely

Time to hop back in the car and make my way back to Merida....5 hours away--sigh.  But for right now, I'm thinking about how the road between Mahaual and the federal highway is very interesting.  40 miles of mangroves and low shrubbery, and I just can't help but feel how healthy and beneficial it must be for all the animals who live here.  It's wonderful to see land preserved in it's natural state.  About 2/3 of the way to the end, I am rewarded with a glorious site.  I see this amazing area of mangroves and grass,where all these beautiful birds are just hanging out.  I pull over to the side of the road and just sit there, listening to them honking and squaking and chattering about their life.

I love how the pink birds have a shovel-like bill.

Birds of many feathers flock together

Just one lone "blue bird", hanging out

You can really see the mangroves here. 

Like I said...800 delightful miles!

The Magical Maya - March Equinox 2015

3:50 am - my alarm sounds (ugh!)--admittedly I hit the snooze...only once! Those of you who know me know that I don't like to get up early on the weekends, and I definitely don't like to set my alarm...but today is a special day:  the March Equinox.  I toss my covers off and get my groove on because it's that time of the year, where day and the night are nearly equal lengths, and magical things happen at Maya ruins!!!

4:20 am - coffee in my Merida coffee cup, featuring the very place I will be going: Dzibichalun's Temple of the Seven Dolls.  Man...it's DARK outside!  Even Oscar's face is telling me it's very early!

5:00 am - I reach the outskirts of the ruins and encounter a line of vehicles waiting to enter the parking lot...shoot!  Am I going to miss the sunrise?  I begin to mentally make plans to get up earlier next year and I wonder briefly if I should turn around and go home. The answer is no!  In the Maya spirit, I decide to preserve.  After all, building these ruins took patience, and I will channel that attitude. 

***While we are waiting, here's your history lesson:  Dzibilchaltun is situated about 10 miles north of Merida, and means "the place where there is writing on the stones."  It was built over hundreds of years, starting in 300 BC. Yes...you read that correctly...300 BC!  and it remained a working community until the time the Spanish arrived in the 1500s (Yep!  that's a long time!).  Archaeologists believe there were as many as 200,000 inhabitants (with both Maya and Spanish residents, interesting, right?) and 8,400 buildings.  Today, the highlights include a large plaza, sacbe trails, the Temple of the Seven Dolls (named because they found seven dolls there... original, right?) and the open chapel, which is an unusual amphitheater.  And of course, there's a wonderful cenote too!

5:45 am - It's twilight, and I've hustled some buns, paid my ticket (62 MXP or $4.20 USD), and am now walking along the sacbe (which is a white path built by the Maya to connect temples, city centers, and plazas).  You are not allowed to enter with backpacks, large purses, chairs, tents, and other large objects.  Luckily I left my tent and chair at home, and only brought my small-ish purse.

I slowly make my way with the crowd, closer to the temple.  The path is very rocky and I'm not exactly sure where I should stand to get the best view.  As I get closer, I see there is a low building in front of the temple, so I move to the right to improve my vantage.

The sun peeks over the back of the temple

6:05 am - I start thinking that if the sun is supposed to come through the window, I better situate myself in front of the window (duh, I know...let's blame it on lack of sleep!). So I saunter over to the middle of the sacbe, trying to avoid people taking photos and video, though inevitably I'm sure I'm in many photos and video!

It's crowded here, but not jam packed tight (which is good because I don't like crowds). Overall, people are very quiet, even the kids.  Everyone is just waiting, for that magical Maya moment. 

6:15 am (ish) And here it comes....

I'm glad I moved to the middle!

The sun rises a bit more.

Now it's smack dab in the middle (along with that guy's head!  I'm just glad he's not taller!) :-)

The whole sky is illuminated and it is a beautiful moment.

Right now, I am saying a prayer of thanks that God made such a wonderful world, with smart Maya and warm sun.

And in brief moment, the sun rises and is nearly out of the window. 

Everybody had their different reactions to the magical moment:  

quiet prayer

hands raising in praise

reflection

smiles

I know it's a million dollar question:  but how did the Maya know how to do this?  It's magical and memorable and wonderful.  I'm so glad that I woke up early to see this. Makes me feel inspired to see the snake shadow at Chichen Itza next year.  

Anyone want to come with me????

A blustery museo afternoon - Canton Palace

What's a girl to do after lunch at an Irish pub with friends on a blustery Saturday afternoon, but cross the street and go to one of the most "famous" museums in Merida?  I've only been here for a year and a half, and have not been.  I think it's beyond time I check out the Canton Palace.

Located on the main drag in Merida, the elegant Canton Palace houses the Regional Anthropology and History Museum.  Currently it showcases two temporary exhibits: Mexican pottery from the Mexican state of Jalisco and the Puuc Code.  Both were truly lovely.

Canton Palace, Paseo de Montejo, Merida

First floor:  "Tonala y Tlaquepaque", which are two municipalities in the Mexican state of Jalisco utilizing pottery techniques that meld both ancient methods with new trends. There are approximately 180 pieces in the exhibition, which basically provide an overview of the history of clay (I know...you really have to like clay!), and well as featuring different production techniques.  Some of these techniques date back to 400 and 600 AD.

For those of you who know me, you know I really appreciate a museum with a great layout. This exhibition is really done quite nicely. 

Enjoy some of my favorite pieces!

This style is called the bandera style (as in "flag" style) because the colors are red, white, and green, like the colors of the Mexican flag.  

A unique footed piece, in the bandera style

Second floor:  the "Puuc Code", an entire exhibit dedicated to the unique features of the Puuc architectural style (found in the Mayan ruins of Uxmal, Kabah, Xlpak, and Oxkintok)  Between the facades, columns, roof combs, and other intricate details, architects can "read the history" of the Puuc era.

Chaac Mool - the rain god - from Uxmal

Sadly, this was my last photo before my camera battery died.  :-( Such is life.  

I guess that means you'll just have to travel to Merida before May 1 to see the rest of this amazing exhibition.

xoxo for now